Our Stay at W Maldives
Back from the W Maldives, I have to say I loved the resort but why?
Having spent significant time at four of the Maldives’ premier properties—Radisson Blu, Le Meridien, Finolhu, and the W—I’ve reached a conclusion that initially felt illogical: The W Maldives is my absolute favorite.
On paper, this choice seems like a contradiction. If you look at an aerial map of a place like Finolhu, you see an island straddling a massive, turquoise lagoon that looks like the platonic ideal of a postcard. It is grand, expansive, and arguably much better for high-speed water sports. When you look at the W, the lagoon is tiny. It’s a thin strip of blue that barely encapsulates the water villas. You’d think this would make it feel less "special," but in reality, the opposite is true.
The Paradox of the Small Lagoon
The geography of the W creates a unique environment. Because the lagoon is smaller, it doesn't have the same "calming" effect on the ocean as a massive reef-protected expanse. Yet, oddly, by the time the water reaches the villas, the waves seem to lose their energy. This creates an atmosphere that feels intimate rather than exposed.
There is one trade-off: when the wind picks up at night, the villa will shake. You can feel the water pressure hitting the pylons beneath you. If this is your first time in a water villa, it can be slightly unnerving, but having stayed at both the St. Regis and the Westin in Bora Bora—which have some of the most protected lagoons on Earth—I’ve realized this is just a "water villa quirk." It happens everywhere. At the W, it’s just a reminder of how close you are to the elements.
A Sanctuary for the "Reluctant" Snorkeler
The most profound benefit of a small lagoon is the concentration of sea life. In larger lagoons, you might have to swim for 10 or 15 minutes just to find the reef. For a weak swimmer, that’s a daunting, often "unsafe" feeling.
At the W, the reef is right there. You walk 10 meters into lovely, crystal-clear water and you hit the coral. Swim another 20 meters down the channel and you are at the "drop-off"—the edge of the reef where the sea floor falls away into a dramatic, deep blue abyss. The sheer volume of fish here is staggering. One morning, we had six sharks circling our water villa. The fish by the beach are so plentiful and bold it feels like they’re daring you to touch them; they seemed to have a "suicide pact" because they’d swim so close to the shore they were almost washed onto the sand.
As someone who is not a strong swimmer and usually skips snorkeling, I spent 30 minutes in the water here. Knowing that the safety of the beach is only a 30-second swim away changes the entire experience. Whether you are a pro or a beginner, the ratio of effort to reward is the best I’ve seen in the Maldives. Even when it’s too windy for paddleboarding on the south side, the north side by the spa remains incredibly calm for world-class snorkeling.
The 2025 Transformation: Mature Luxury
Following a massive multi-million dollar renovation completed in early 2025, the W has "grown up." Gone are the loud neon pinks and purples of the mid-2000s. The new design language, led by Miaja Design Group, is more refined, using a palette of indigo, silver, and organic wood.
The Superior Overwater Villa (Lagoon Side) was my favorite. It faces the expansive blue lagoon and, crucially, features an overwater net for lounging that is missing from the higher-tier Premier villas. It also has a covered pagoda on the deck, providing essential shade.
The Premier Overwater Villa (Ocean Side) is more "tech-heavy" with Japanese-style bidets and a stunning blue transparent Cristalmood bathtub that echoes the natural contours of a reef lagoon. They face the uninhabited island of Gaathafushi, but the pagoda on the deck is uncovered, making the heat a bit intense during the day. Both categories feature private pools with a jacuzzi function and a "MixBar" that replaces the standard minibar with locally sourced ingredients.
Dining: The Battle of FIRE vs. FISH
The island is small enough that you can walk between all five restaurants—FIRE, FISH, SIP, Kitchen, and WET—in just a few minutes.
FIRE: This was my personal standout. It has a "jungle-meets-beach" vibe with tables set directly in the sand and an open fire pit. The menu focuses on elevated barbecue—charcoal grills, tandoori ovens, and rotisseries. The atmosphere is far more relaxed and "Maldivian" than your typical resort steakhouse. Sitting with your feet in the sand under the stars while eating high-quality grilled meat is the peak Maldives experience.
FISH: This is the signature overwater fine-dining spot. It focuses on an "ocean-to-table" concept with incredibly fresh, local catches. While the food—specifically the sashimi and the local lobster—is top-tier, it feels a bit more formal. It’s the place you go for a romantic sunset dinner where you can watch stingrays swim beneath the glass floor panels.
KITCHEN: This is the all-day bistro. The breakfast here is legendary, featuring a massive spread of fresh juices (beetroot, pineapple, watermelon), a hidden menu of Maldivian specialties like Mas Huni (tuna with coconut and roti), and a champagne station that you can help yourself to.
SIP & WET: SIP is the best sunset spot on the island, serving Peruvian-inspired Nikkei bites and cocktails with a DJ playing chill-out tracks. WET is the poolside lounge where you can get wood-fired pizzas or burgers for lunch (expect to pay about $150 for two).
The Gaathafushi Experience: The Ultimate Escape
The W offers a private excursion to their sister island, Gaathafushi, and it is one of those "eye-watering" expenses that actually feels worth it. Prices start at around $700 for sunset drinks and climb to over $1,100 for a private lunch.
We spent four hours there for lunch, and it was pure magic. The staff set up a full table, beanbags, a swinging seat, a Bluetooth speaker, and even a WiFi hotspot on a completely deserted island, then they leave you entirely alone. There is a hidden bathroom and an outdoor shower, so you have all the comforts of a resort while being a modern-day Robinson Crusoe. Depending on the tide and wind, you can choose between the calm sandbar side or the larger lagoon side.
Final Logistics and Verdict
Getting here is a 25-minute seaplane flight from Malé (roughly $600 per person). If you have Marriott Bonvoy Platinum status or higher, you get free breakfast, which is a significant value-add given the à la carte prices. Soft drinks and juices in the minibar are complimentary and replenished daily, as are the treats at the "Sweet Spots" (ice cream and cold towels) scattered around the island.
The W Maldives is a rare find. It combines the raw, unfiltered beauty of an elite house reef with a compact, walkable design and a newly matured aesthetic. It’s perfect for non-swimmers who want to see the best of the ocean without the fear, and it’s stylish enough for those who want their luxury to feel "cool" rather than corporate. It is a place I would return to in a heartbeat.
